Progress Tech. Sway Bar

October 18, 2011 by Leave a Comment

Progress Sway Bars PN: 62.2312

Moto 1 WRXAfter we installed the coilovers on Moto1, we immediately noticed the improvement in handling overall. However, we also knew that the stock rear swaybar wasn’t up to the task. So we contacted our friends at Progress to discuss some swaybar upgrades for the WRX. Jeff at Progress suggested that we treat the front and rear swaybars as suspension tuning devices and use whatever combination of bars that allows us to dial in the car to our driving preferences. We thought this was good advice.

So we grabbed the front and rear bars and set out to install only the Progress rear adjustable bar for now, and see how the car behaves. Meanwhile, we just set the front bar next to the car, figuring we will look into installing it after we have seen what the car will do without it.

To get the rear bar installation started, we had to begin by removing the stock bar. So we sprayed the stock bar with our trusty P’Blaster and started unbolting everything. For the most part, this is a typical removal and reinstall, except that Progress supplies their own reinforced swaybar mounting brackets. So once you remove the stock bar, you have to remove the OE stamped steel ‘stand-offs’ as well. This process is really just a matter of a few extra bolts, except that the charcoal canister is mounted in that area as well, and it makes it a ton easier to remove the bolts that hold it in place to give you better access to everything else.

Once you bolt the brackets in, and get ready to pop the bar in, you have to grease the polyurethane bushings with the supplied grease to ensure quiet and reliable operation. So we slathered the sticky stuff on there generously then popped the bushings onto the bar. At this point we just had to tighten the main mounting bolts and connect the endlinks to the bar, selecting the center adjustment holes as a starting point. A small dab of blue ThreeBond threadlocker on each of the endlink bolts was added as a safety measure.

Super Strong Pregress Technology Rear Swaybar MountProgress Swaybar Mounted and Ready

At this point we lowered the car to the ground and looked everything over one last time before heading out for a test drive. Once out on the road, the car felt exactly the same. Until we hit a turn. Then things got exciting. The car already handled quite well, but with the rear bar on the car, the car actually wanted to turn. The body stayed level and the way the car behaved inspired more confidence. In fact, the car was able to take anything we could throw at it on the street. So the next step is a track day so we can really dial in the suspension and the rear swaybar, then make a decision on where to go from there. Keep an eye out for some more feedback once we get the car on the track.

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Golden Eagle Sleevings

September 30, 2011 by Leave a Comment
Although there are many different options when choosing a sleeving company for your block, we would like to point out some factors for why you should choose Golden Eagle Mfg. for your engine sleeving needs.Process - We use precision CNC equipment for sleeve installations; that assures proper tolerances time and time again without any mistakes. We are ISO9002 qualified and MILI45208 certified. No local engine machine shop can even come close to our tolerances!Reliability - All of our blocks are tested and re-tested to assure the reliability that the customer deserves.Warranty and Customer Support - We carry the best warranty in the business. Lifetime warranty against sleeve cracking and sinking. We have on hand some of the most educated engine builders in the industry to answer any questions or concerns a customer may have.Turn Around Time – Our turn around time is second to none. We can usually sleeve and deck your block within 3-4 weeks. If you need it sooner, we offer an express service for an extra fee that gets your block done in 5 daysExperience – We have sleeved more blocks than all other sleeving companies COMBINED. We have a proven track record of reliability and performance.

Golden Eagle Mfg. has more experience sleeving 4 cyl aluminum blocks than all other sleeving companies in the market. We have tested and perfected the sleeving process so there are no mistakes. Golden Eagle Mfg. sleeved blocks carry the best warranty and customer support in the business. Our blocks are guaranteed not to leak, sink or mix oil and water, WE GUARANTEE IT!With our precision CNC equipment and military specification tolerances, no one can compete with the quality and reliability available when you get a Golden Eagle Mfg. sleeved block.

Most of the top racers in the Import Drag Racing circuit rely on Golden Eagle Mfg. sleeved blocks to keep them winning and breaking records. Race teams like Team Bergenholtz, Lisa Kubo, BisiMoto Engineering, Eggum Racing, JJ Olson and many others exclusively use Golden Eagle Mfg. sleeved blocks. These teams have no room for error and that is why they rely on us and our proven reputation for their performance engine block needs.

Re-sleeving available for the following engines

Honda/Acura
D15, D16
B16, B17, B18A/8, B18C
B20
H22, H23
F20, F22, F23
K20, K24
L15 (Honda Fit)

Nissan 
SR20

Toyota 
2ZZ

Scion 
2AZ

Subaru 
EJ20, EJ25

Ford/Mazda 
DURATEC

Saturn 
ECOTECK

Porsche 
944

Saturn
1.9

Call for Pricing & Information


Honda/Acura B16/17/18 B20(CRV)
Honda K20 K24
Honda D16
Ford/Mazda Duratec
Subaru EJ Series Engines
Filed Under: Tech Articles

KW Variant 3

July 14, 2011 by Leave a Comment

KW Variant 3 – Tech Article:

The WRX needed a serious suspension overhaul from the day we picked up the car. Right away we knew that at least one of the stock struts was well past its prime, and a few of them probably weren’t far behind. This didn’t come as much of a surprise considering the amount of mileage on the odometer. So we lined up a set of KW Variant 3 coilovers to take on the challenge of making the WRX into a solid all-around performer, rain or shine, snow or sun, track or street.

When you pull the KW coilovers out of the box you immediately notice the shiny finish of the Inox-line stainless shock bodies. Next you notice the purple anodized hats, and powder coated springs. These things put on a really great show straight out of the box. So now that we drooled over them it was time to swap them onto the car.

In the case of our WRX you have to reuse the stock top hats, which generally isn’t much of a problem, except that the WRX’s stock front top hat limits access to the top nut on the strut. For removing the stock struts it was a non-issue, we just hit it with an impact gun and the nut came right off. However when it came to putting the hat onto the KW shaft, we had to get a bit creative because we couldn’t simply blast it on with the impact. We ended up using a spark plug socket that had a hex end, with an 8mm socket on a ¼” drive extension through the center of the spark plug socket. This allowed us the hold the shaft safely with the 8mm, while turning the top nut with the spark plug socket via a crow-foot and a torque wrench. It was quite a contraption, but it worked flawlessly. So you should plan ahead for how you want to tackle that portion of the install if you are working on a WRX. After that was figured out, we just had to bolt the front coilovers into place in the same way the stock ones came out. We re-attached the brake lines to the provided mounting tabs and the front was ready to get buttoned up.

The rear of the WRX had its own set of challenges. Nothing nearly as dramatic as making your own tools, but it wasn’t exactly a quickie install either. On the WRX the rear seat has to be removed to get to the top mounting bolts, so we pulled the bottom out, then the back of the rear seat. Once the rear mounting points were exposed, we noticed that removing the seatbelt coils would give us a bunch more room to reach the 3 nuts that hold each rear strut in place. This did help, but in truth, the nuts were still slow going due to limited access to turn the ratchet. Again, nothing complicated, it just took a bit of extra time. Once the stock shocks were out, we switched the top hats over to the KW coilovers and were ready to re-install. The reinstall was basically the reverse of the removal and caused no major issues. We opted to leave the rear seat out of the car at this point to allow access to the top adjuster on the KW.

Time to check the ride height. When we assembled the front and rear sets, we spun the spring perch to an even measurement on all four, but completely guessing on how low the car would actually sit. Once the car hit the ground we were all very excited about the way the car looked, but we knew that with our wheel and tire combination we weren’t going to be able to get away with leaving the car that low. At least not yet. The car looked amazing at that height, but because we chose an aggressive tire size, we knew we would have to roll the rear fenders before we could commit to a permanent ride height. So we opted to raise the car back up on the lift, and spin the perches up a bit to get the car to sit at a safe height until we get around to attacking the rear fender clearance issues.

So after some other small adjustments, and a cleanup around the shop, it was time to take the car for a quick drive to make sure everything was ok, and to see if there were rubbing issues and if so, how bad they were. Over small slow bumps the suspension seemed quite stiff, but once you got onto the road, the car rode quite well. And this is really with virtually no true tuning of the suspension. We already have plans to take the car to an autocross in the very near future where we can really dial in the suspension, so any real efforts now would be wasted. The car did rub a bit in the rear over certain bumps, so we again adjusted the perches a tad, and called it a day.

Shortly after the install, a couple of us spent extended seat time in the car on both highway and city streets, and the car was

amazingly comfortable and held its composure through some aggressive turns. We expect to see some dramatic handling and ride quality improvements once we can lower the car back down to a final height and get the suspension dialed in a bit more.

Last Minute Update:
We spent a couple of hours with a fender roller, and managed to clear the offending lip out-of-the-way. After a quick drive, the rubbing is gone. So we lowered the car a bit which resulted in the height you see in the picture. It rides as well as before, now we just need to align it and truly tune the suspension.

 

Call us today to order KW Suspension parts for your next project.

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Why We Use/Recommend Magnaflow Products

May 31, 2011 by 2 Comments

MagnaFlow Performance mufflers are 100% stainless steel and lap-joint welded for solid construction and rugged reliability even in the most extreme conditions. They feature a free-flowing, straight-through perforated stainless steel core, stainless mesh wrap and acoustical fiber fill to deliver that smooth, deep tone. Mufflers are packed tight with this acoustical material to ensure long life and no sound degradation over time. Backed by a Lifetime Warranty.

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Boost At Last (Feature DSport Magainze)

May 24, 2011 by Leave a Comment

Boost at Last, Boost at Last, Boost at Last

» 91-octane, 1.8-liters and 402WHP Civic

Jeren Walker had a dream that one day he would own a turbocharged Honda. Last month, we caught a glimpse of his “oh so JDM” ’93 Civic hatchback in the “Turbo System Checklist”. This month, we follow up on the project and see just how far this Civic has come thanks to the addition of the PeakBoost turbocharger system, an A’PEX Power FC, an A’PEX Integration boost-up kit, a set of RC Engineering 1000cc/min injectors and a Walbro 255 liter-per-hour in-tank fuel pump.Before the Boost

When serious amounts of horsepower are going to be made on a regular basis, it’s important to have an engine that provides a solid foundation. For this project, the B18C engine block was treated to a complete machining makeover that included a set of Darton sleeves. The new ductile-iron cylinders were honed to accept a set of 81.5mm forged JE pistons. These JE Pistons are manufactured from 2618 aluminum alloy for the ultimate in strength. The flat-top design of these pistons provides a 9.5-to-1 compression ratio with the B16A cylinder head and Cometic 1.5mm gasket combination. A set of Crower steel connecting rods make the connection between the pistons and the crankshaft. The crankshaft is friendly to its bearings thanks to the addition of a Fluidampr balancer.

On the top side, the B16A cylinder head has been fitted with Ferrea valves, Eibach springs and Crower retainers. A mild port and polish was performed by KG Engineering on the cylinder head while a precision valve job was executed by Benson’s Performance Machine. A set of BLOX Type-A camshafts and a BLOX intake manifold complete the engine modifications.

Bring on the Boost

Instead of a complete bolt-on kit that relies on some supplementary fuel system, we elected to provide our own engine management solution. To generate horsepower, it’s no secret that you need to have an adequate supply of fuel. Our solution would be both simple and effective. Starting from the tank, we installed a Walbro 255 liter-per-hour pump. This pump pushes the fuel through the stock lines and fuel rail. Pressure in the fuel rail is regulated by the original Honda fuel pressure regulator (we’re not crazy; the Honda regulator is the same part used on 600-horsepower Mercury Marine big-block engines). A set of four 1000cc/min RC Engineering fuel injectors are cycled by an A’PEX Power FC (Full Computer) plug-and-play engine management system. The A’PEX Power FC computer plugs into the factory harness (using an adapter harness on ODB-1 and OBD-0 vehciles) and uses all of the original sensors. Since we elected to “go turbo” on this Honda, we opted for the A’PEX Integration “boost-up” kit. This kit not only includes a boost-control solenoid, it also include a 3.0kg/cm2 map sensor that lets the Power FC read boost levels up to 28psi. In addition to two 20×20 maps for fuel control (one map for VTEC-off, one for VTEC-on), the Power FC also has a 20×20 map for ignition control. The VTEC activation point can also be optimized through the Power FC and the FC Commander. When teamed with an FC Datalogit the full power of the Power FC can be unlocked as datalogging and a PC interface can be realized.

For the turbocharger and intercooler system we selected a PeakBoost Turbo System from cheapturbos.com. For those interested in a complete kit or the pieces to put together the kit, cheapturbos.com also offers the PeakBoost components a la carte. The PeakBoost kit is designed to fit 92-00 Honda Civics or 94-01 Acura Integras. The PeakBoost system uses a heavy-gauge (8-gauge) stainless steel tubular exhaust manifold that incorporates an equal length design. The equal length tubes tie into a four-in-one collector that flanges to a T3 flange. This flange supports the T3/T04E-hyrbid turbocharger. The turbo header collector is also home to a Tial 38mm wastegate (with 6psi spring). To provide a low-restriction path for exhaust gases, a 3-inch stainless steel downpipe is included with a stainless steel flex coupling. On the charge air side, TIG-welded 2.5-inch intercooler plumbing directs airflow to the PWR 24x6x3.5-inch intercooler that sends chilled air to the engine. To provide a smooth transition out of boost, a TiAL blow-off valve is included. Some of the less exciting but just as important pieces included in the kit are a 12-inch slimline electric fan, stainless oil feed and oil drain lines with Earl’s fittings, all necessary gaskets and hose clamps. Also included in the kit, but not used by us was a Vortech FMU and a “weld-less” oil drain adapter. The Vortech FMU was not needed since we had a fuel delivery solution and we always prefer a welded fitting in the oil pan rather than a “weld-less” solution.

The turbocharger installation was performed by Tim Clair and Scott Branson at Syizm with some assistance from our Corporate Creative Director Phil Lam and Managing Editor Sami Sharaf. Total install time was roughly six hours.

Since the factory exhaust system would not be ready for prime-time turbo action, we opted for a KTELLER exhaust system fitted with a MagnaFlow muffler. Sean Griffin at Griffinwurxs welded up the exhaust.

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Stop-Tech WRX Big brake kit

May 19, 2011 by Leave a Comment
The full big brake kit
Pawel and Mary removing the stock rubber lineCory and Jason convincing the brake line to come offMounting the relocation bracketNew rotor in place		 Cory and Joe draining the lines
Recently the team attacked the WRX to install the Stop-Tech Big brake kit.  Immediately when you open the boxes for this kit you can see the attention to detail put into the kit.  The parts themselves look amazing, and the solid packaging guarantees that the parts will arrive in perfect condition.  Keep in mind that the BBK arrives in 2 boxes, and all of the brake pads are in one of the boxes, so don’t be surprised when one box doesn’t have them in it.  Check the second box before thinking that the pads are missing. Also, you need the plan ahead to determine if your current wheels will clear the new larger calipers and rotors.  For this reason Stop-Tech supplies printable templates on their website for you to use as a guide before you run into problems with wheels hitting your new big brake kit. 

For the install we opted to have everyone get involved and get dirty.  To accomplish this we decided to divide into two teams, one for each side of the car.  So we loaded the car on the lift, and started pulling the wheels off along with the stock brakes.  The stock calipers and rotors popped off without much issue, but the brake lines did require a bit more convincing than expected.  We had to be careful to remove the stock rubber lines without damaging the hardlines that stay on the car. With some muscle and lots of penetrating spray we got the rubber lines off with out any significant damage to the hardlines. So at that point it was time to start popping the Stop-Tech parts on.

The caliper relocation bracket bolted on right where the stock caliper was mounted, then the new huge rotor slid into place.   We needed to slightly bend the stock heat shields out of the way so they wouldn’t come in contact with the inside rotor face, which wasn’t a big issue, it just required some more muscle. For safety’s sake tossed one lug nut on, just to keep the rotor in place while sliding the caliper into position. The relocation brackets have studs in them for the caliper to mount, so we slid the caliper onto the studs and into position.  Once the caliper was on, you could really get the feel for how big these calipers and rotors are in comparison to the stock ones. Once the caliper was loosely bolted on, we routed and attached the brake lines to the new caliper and tightened everything down.

The next step was to pop the new brake pads into the calipers. Thanks to Stop-Tech’s top loading calipers, this was a breeze. The basic idea here is that you remove the two Phillips headed studs, pop the bridge and spring clip out, drop the pads in, and slap it back together in the reverse order.  Super easy. Then in an attempt to reduce the amount of front brake bias we also replaced the rear pads with the same 309 compound from Stop-Tech.  So this was also the perfect time to upgrade the rear lines and rotors with some Powerslot rear rotors and another set of Stop-Tech rear brake lines.  So once all of those parts were mounted, we flushed the fluid and added Stop-Tech’s recommended fluid; Motul 600 DOT-5 brake fluid.  While bleeding the system, we noticed one of the hard-line fittings on the caliper that crosses from the inside to the outside of the caliper was leaking, so we tightened it up and wiped everything down so we could drive the car to bed-in the pads. 

The Stop-Tech BBK came with specific instructions on how to properly bed-in the pads.  They suggest a sequence of 60-0 stops without actually stopping the car, just coming to a roll then taking it back up to 60 and braking again.  Basically a simple process, once you find a safe place to do it.  During this process the brakes let off quite a bit of smoke from the pads and rotors heating up for the first time and burning off any residues from the manufacturing process.  So once we let everything cool down, the car was ready to rock.

Our initial impressions are that the car brakes significantly quicker than it did with the factory brakes, so we expect it he car to quite well on the track and at autocrosses in the near future.  The kit was a very easy installation that is really only slightly more complicated than a typical brake replacement. The labor involved is minimal and well worth considering when building a car for any purpose.  Check out Stop-Techs’s website to see all of the different BBKs they offer.  www.stoptech.com

We have a lot more parts sitting here waiting to be installed, so once we get a few more things done, we’ll be able to take the car out and see how it performs with the new brakes and all of the other parts on it.  Keep an eye out for more updates.

 Carefully transferring the MAF to the AEM
New caliper and rotor mounted
Waiting for the new brake padsThis kit is huge
Rear calipers ready for new pads The final product
Filed Under: Tech Articles

AEM Intake System Installation PN: 21-477C

May 11, 2011 by Leave a Comment
Intake system before installing AEM
Everything in the AEM intake box

Installing the AEM Intake System 21-477C

On April 28th, 2011 our sales staff had their first real opportunity to get acquainted with MOTO 1, WRX project car. We spent a bit of time looking over the car, but the main objective was to install the 21-477C intake system from AEM.

The install went off without a hitch. Most of the guys have already installed one intake or another on a vehicle already, so it wasn’t anything particularly difficult. But it was nice for everyone to see how the box is packed, and what is included in the kit.

The parts themselves all fit perfectly, and the silver finish on the piping was top notch. Every piece required to install the kit was included or could be re-used from the original parts. A nice touch was the rubber damper piece that you install around the hole in the fender wall so the intake tube doesn’t hit bare metal. Although once the mounting tabs are bolted down it is unlikely that the tube would ever hit the fender wall, but it’s nice to know that it’s there just in case.
Cory removes the restrictive stock airbox Jason making room to access the fenderwell
Filed Under: Tech Articles

Why KTeller’s Exhaust?

January 1, 2011 by Leave a Comment

When it comes to exhaust systems, especially ones for sport compacts, there are only a handful of companies out there. However they all seems to subscribe to the same mentality when designing their systems, use 2.25″ pipe, a few nuts and bolts and away you go. There is no flexibility or customization available. Maybe I need a 2.5″ or even a 3″ exhaust or perhaps I prefer the exhaust note of a different brand of muffler? Well thanks to KTeller and their mandrel bent exhaust kits, these options are easily achieved.

The KTeller difference.

You may be asking yourself why a KTeller kit and not just a muffler shop? The answer is simple… quality, fitment, and flexibility.

KTeller’s exhaust kits come as a complete mandrel bent piping kit, from the catalytic converter all the way to the back of the car (or wherever the exhaust exits). Whereas at a muffler shop you will more then likely get a cheaper “crush” or pressure bent system since shops with mandrel tubing benders are few and very far between. Some shops have been known to pass crush bent exhaust as mandrel as they don’t know the difference or even care. Some have even resorted to increasing the tubing size of their crush bent systems to hopefully negate the negative effects that crush bent systems have. All in all it adds up to a inferior exhaust system that you just paid a pretty penny for.

Know the difference, “crush” vs. mandrel.

When a pipe is “crush” or pressure bent to shape, the process is exactly how it sounds, the pipe is crushed when it is bent to shape. In turn this can reduce the inside diameter of the pipe as much as 20%, so you’re 2.25″ exhaust just got squeezed down to 1.8″. Whereas a mandrel bent pipe maintains it’s inside diameter through all of the bends. The smoother the bends, the less turbulence, the better the flow, the easier the exhaust is expelled, it’s just as simple as that.

A comparison of a crush bent 90° angle (top) and a mandrel bent (bottom).

Notice how the crush bent is significant’y smaller through the bend.

alt

Cross cut of the pipe to show the reduction of the inside diameter of the crush bent (left) and how the mandrel maintains it’s size completely (right).

alt

It fits for a reason.

Have you ever installed an aftermarket part on your car and it just doesn’t fit right or is just slightly off? Ever wonder why? It’s because most manufacturers make their products so that it fits more makes, models, or different years of the same vehicle just to cut down on production cost. This is not the case for KTeller’s exhaust kits. Each kit is specifically tailored for each vehicle to insure the proper fitment each and every time.

Flexibility.

What makes KTeller’s exhaust kits stand out from the rest of the market is their flexibility and customization. Each kit has the option of being made of stainless steel or a more budget friendly aluminized steel. Piping sizes start at 2.25″ with options for 2.5″ and even 3″, something that even the biggest manufacturers don’t offer. Since each kit is just the tubing portion of the exhaust, any style or brand of muffler, resonators, and catalytic converters can be used. Complete freedom to choose and make your exhaust sound the way you want!

Each kit comes with the necessary hangers, gaskets, and flanges to make installation a snap for the DIYer or even a shop.

KTeller 3″ stainless steel exhaust kit.

KTeller

Whether you are turbo charged or naturally aspirated, putting down 500 horses on the strip or driving to work everyday, KTeller’s exhaust kits offer the most flexibility and customization then anyone else on the market.

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No Weld O2 Sensor

December 1, 2010 by Leave a Comment

AEM No Weld O2 Sensor Mount

AEM No Weld O2 Sensor Mount

By Mike Kojima of motoiq.com

Being able to quickly attach a bung for a wide band 02 sensor is a big pain in the ass.  I know a lot of you have probably tried to help a friend tune their car.  No matter how many times you told them to have an O2 sensor bung welded into their exhaust before they show up at your place, then they arrive and you ask them where it is, they blankly look at you and go “what?”  I know this happens to me all the time.

Maybe you don’t have access to a welder and do a lot of tuning or want to tune your car.  Perhaps you even have a tuning business and don’t have access to fabrication equipment.  In any case the AEM No Weld O2 sensor mount is a godsend and a product that has been a long time in coming.

To install the AEM No Weld O2 sensor mount you just need a hand drill and a few simple hand tools.  The installation is so simple the hardest thing will probably be putting the car up on jack stands or removing the exhaust section you want to install the Sensor mount in.  Even if you have a welder, the AEM mount is probably easier and faster.

AEM No Weld O2 Sensor Mount
Let us show you exactly how fast and easy this is.  We used a 3″ piece of tubing to simulate a typical exhaust system so use your imagination a little.
AEM No Weld O2 Sensor Mount
Unpack the box and read the instructions!
AEM No Weld O2 Sensor Mount
Get the tools you will need, a hand drill with a step bit, you don’t really need a step bit but its faster.  You could use a hole saw or drill a series of progressively larger holes, a ratchet wrench and an allen wrench.  If you are really anal, a deburring tool or you could use a larger drill bit.
AEM No Weld O2 Sensor Mount
Drill your hole where you want it.  AEM’s Greg Nakano puts his engineering training to work on this difficult task.
AEM No Weld O2 Sensor Mount
The hole is done.  If you don’t have a step drill you should get one.  Every car guy needs one, it makes a lot of hole drilling chores much easier.  I use mine all the time.
AEM No Weld O2 Sensor Mount
A close up of thrilling drilling action!
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Choosing Your Exhaust

November 18, 2010 by Leave a Comment

A car exhaust is among the most important parts of this useful transportation system. Some people might think that it is not a crucial part but it is in fact needed for every car to function well. Since the invention of the automobile car, exhaust systems have played a significant role in helping great cars achieve a good status. What is an exhaust anyway? An exhaust is not just any simple car part. It plays a variety of roles, which as mentioned, helps a car function well. If you want to change or upgrade your car exhaust system, it is very crucial to learn how it works. An exhaust system eliminates the derivatives of combustion from the engine and expels them into the environment away for the passengers of the car. It also keeps the engines noise quite so as not to produce unnecessary sound. On modern cars, exhaust clear out the discharges of the engine before it is vented out into the atmosphere.

The primary job of an exhaust is clashing. This is the reason why choosing one is always a hard decision on whether an exhaust suits your car or not. The following factors should be put into consideration when you make inquiries and buy an exhaust system. Cost is an important factor to consider. Like everything that you wish to buy, cost should always be measured. If you are on a budget look for one that is cheap yet follows quality specifications. Canvas them in different stores before you make a decision. For example, a mild steel replacement can be affordable and a bit cheaper, yet a stainless item can cost more, but is most likely to last many times longer.

- Longevity, weight, performance, and sound should also be considered. Ease and quality of fit of the exhaust to the car as well as its compatibility to your car is also of great importance.

- Choose a system that is affordable, but also make sure that it is rustproof because rust obviously lessens its lifespan. Stainless steel items are more expensive but are going to prevent rusting over a traditional mild steel.

- Select an exhaust that is lightweight and performs well because no one really wants to buy something does not function well. Like every machine, an exhaust system should do its job well. Every exhaust system should also have a perfect fit to your car because it may not be able to function well without a great fitting. This means that when you choose or buy a car exhaust you should bear in mind that it has to be compatible with your car.

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